Photos and story by Paulo Loreto Lim

It has been four years since the last visit to Taipei and it was a long overdue return. Even arriving at Taoyuan International Airport was completely different as the city has constructed an airport subway line, something not available on the previous trip. Last time, took a taxi into town and, apparently, looked like a tourist because the driver asked, “First time in Taipei?” She said it was because I kept looking around as we drove along the highway.
During the last visit, I primarily depended on single-trip coins to get around, which are still in use; however, this time, invested in a Taipei Easycard, which offers access onto various modes of public transportation, along with acting as a debit card at convenience stores (much like Hong Kong’s octopus card). After taking some time to figure out which machines to purchase it from (they can also be bought at convenience stores), managed to get my hands on one—and they happened to be Hello Kitty-themed.
Hopped on the train and headed to Ximending.
During visits to South Korea, have always chosen to stay in Myeongdong because of the constant activity and food establishments that stay open later into the night; it was the same experience in Ximending. On the last visit to Taipei, stayed at a hotel in the Da’an district, which is also nice but not as tourist-friendly.
Like most of my trips, there was a primary focus on food and I revisited some of the old spots, like the Din Tai Fung location at the base of Taipei 101. Even without going up to the observation deck (did it last time and one should visit at least once), there are also a variety of upscale shops along with lots of souvenir stores. Plus, the food court there also offers a wide selection of goodies.
Visited a Din Tai Fung previously while in Shanghai but this would be my first time stopping by the same location twice to enjoy a sumptuous meal of dumplings and noodle soup; there’s a reason this place has spread across the world and earned a Michelin star.
I also wanted to have at least one hot pot meal and, while wandering one of the malls near Taipei Main Station, saw a sign for Hai Di Lao, a well-known China-based hot pot chain. The set we ordered came with beef, mutton, tofu, quail eggs, and a variety of vegetables. Along with that, they also offer unlimited side dishes, such as seaweed, edamame, and various pickles; there were cookies in the waiting area (individually wrapped); and two flavors of Häagen-Dazs ice cream. I swear, while on my way out, there was a woman getting her nails done at a manicurist station in the waiting area.
Back in Ximending, which is also known for its street food, stopped for an all-time favorite—and a staple for any visit to Taipei—the oyster omelet. Not sure how such a simple dish of oysters, eggs, and vegetables could be so incredible (it might be the sauce). Then, there was also a spot I had seen on television but had yet to try, the Ay-Chung Flour-Rice Noodle stand. The place is a relatively small operation but with a massive customer base—even at 9:00 a.m., there are people huddled around the area. It’s basically noodles and chopped up pork innards in a thick, delicious soup. The menu is very simple—small or large—and once the money is handed over, they pretty much have a bowl ready. On any given day in Ximending, people are either walking around with the now-recognizable paper bowls or gathered around the stand itself.
As is tradition with visiting Taipei, a walk around the Chiang Kai-shek Memorial, where one can witness the changing of the guard; admire the well-manicured lawns; along with the nearby architecture, namely, the National Concert Hall, National Theater, and the main gate. There’s also a classic 1955 Cadillac on display in the museum that was donated to Chiang by the Chinese community of the Philippines.
Another revisit that was necessary was to the Shilin Night Market. The first time around, visited during the day and the place was deserted. There were a few spots open serving food and it was interesting to wander around but it is the complete opposite at night with multitudes of food stalls situated right next to each other, various carnival games, and an array of souvenir stands. However, during this visit, the basement food court was undergoing renovations.
During one of his travel specials, the late Anthony Bourdain said of Taipei, “It’s not the prettiest of cities;” but—and, if memory serves me right, he acknowledged this as well—the culture rich, there is a lot to see, and the food is delicious./WDJ

Stayed in the Ximending area, which is considered to be one of the most active parts of town as it offers a multitude of restaurants and shopping—primarily, street food and souvenir shops.